202MethodsofForcingTheodoreAnnemann
Theodore Annemann
25,226 wordsCard MagicintermediateI want to say right at the start that I am not claiming any originality for the contents of this manuscript. In a number of instances I think I have added some forces and methods that arc m y own, but it would be hard to prove because of the sameness in basic principles.
PalmPassBook TestFalse ShuffleForceMisdirectionPsychological Force
WILL ALMA
M.I.M.C. CLONDON)
FIRST INTRODUCTION
I want to say right at the start that I am not claiming any originality
for the contents of this manuscript. In a number of instances I think I
have added some forces and methods that arc m y own, but it would be
hard to prove because of the sameness in basic principles.
In m y professional work I found tnat many times I had need of
a good force and on the spur of the moment it was hard if not impossible
for me to think of the most suitable method for the conditions under
which I was working. I know that this is a situation in which every
worker has found himself, and because of that I know just how useful
this compilation will be.
It was over a year ago when Arthur Lloyd, the Human Card Index,
whose name and act (the only one of its kind) has graced practically
every vaudeville theatre in the world, spoke to m e about the usefulness
of a complete compilation on the subject of forcing. I immediately
agreed, and for one year have picked up and liled every possible method
that I could locale. I know well enough that the collection is not com-
plete. No collection of anything pertaining to Magic is complete inasfar
as methods go. But I do know that this is the first time such a collection
has been offered and therefore I have done m y best to make it as repre-
sentative as possible.
If there are more than 101 methods between the covers of this work,
don't thank m e for being generous. You are getting everything that I
have filed and without counting them I selected the title bccausc it looks
good on paper and sounds well. There are 110 less than 101 methods in
all so I have not fallen below the mark, which to m e is something.
Introductions should be short and to the point. I fear that I have
already said a little too much that is or will be of little interest to the
reader who would rather delve into ihe secrets.
So thanks again, Arthur Lloyd, for the idea that has grown into
101 Methods of Forcing.
Tlieo. Anncmann.
April 12, 1932
PUBLISHED BY
MAX H O L D E N , 220 W. 42nd St., N E W YORK CITY
Copyright December 1933
SECOND INTRODUCTION
I suppose that it is alright for the writer to attach two introductions
by himself even though it may not be done as the usual thing.
Nearly two years have passed since I laboriously turned out the
original 101 manuscript, which, though a disgrace to make Guttenberg
turn over in his grave, did pave the way to this more extensive and
(thanks only to Max Holden) much better appearing product.
That makes it about three years since Arthur Lloyd gave me the
idea of compiling such a collection. Time does fly but after the first one
hundred and fifty methods were together, time didn't mean a thing
because there just seemed to be no more. The last fifty-two were the
greatest struggle I've ever had and as far as I am concerned, the mention
of the word "force" is now known to put me in a pretty dangerous frame
of mind.
I must thank Jean Hugard here for invaluable help inasmuch as he
dug up about 25 of the later additions and it was a great help indeed.
Otherwise I can't give any credit out, not just because it doesn't seem to be
done anymore, but because such a thing is impossible and would start
some sort of a riot, I am sure.
A year from now I'll probably remember it all as a lot of fun.
Right now I can only send it out with a prayer and thanksgiving that I
have finished.
Theo. Annemann.
November 28, 1933
CONTENTS
202 Methods of Forcing
(Note by author: I have found it next to impossible to actually
classify every method because il would mean cross indexing practically
everything I have Avritten.
In seperating them under four headings I have placed Cards in
general, Prepared decks for forcing, Numbers and Miscellaneous by them-
selves which is something if not everything.
Practically all of the number methods can be used in some manner
with book tests. Name and word methods come under the same heading
and combine in many cases with those used for cards. Then there are
novel methods which use apparatus well known to magicians and common
objects to be found most everywhere.
Under one of the headings you will find the particular method you
need at the moment. And if you have need of a force that can't be solved
by this compilation, I certainly will go on record as saying that as far
as I'm concerncd, it doesn't exist.)
CARDS
The pack having been shuffled by a spectator, is r e t u r n e d to p e r f o r m e r w h o
takes it in right hand, at the same time casually pulling u p left sleeve followed by
the left hand pulling up right sleeve. When right hand w i t h deck pulled up left
sleeve, the bottom card of deck w a s easily spotted. Asking the p a r t y if they a r e
satisfied, a pass is made and card brought to about two-thirds d o w n in pack. A
slight break is held at this spot. The thumb of left hand now r u n s the cards of the
upper portion, fanwise, over into the right hand, the person being, at the same
time, invited to take one. When about half of the upper portion has been passed,
a card, NOT T H E ONE TO BE FORCED, is pushed temptingly f o r w a r d . The per-
son may be inclined to take it—whether he is so inclined or not, the p e r f o r m e r
d r a w s it back, with the remark, "Oh! not necessarily that one." This gives him
confidence, and the p e r f o r m e r continues to pass the cards over to the right hand,
spreading them nicely fanwise, until he reaches the one to be forced, which he
exposes a little more than usual, then continues, "Just take any one you please." It
will, of course, be understood that the action must be timed, as near as possible,
to meet the hand, as it is raised to d r a w a card.
Iluve the card to be forced fourth from the top of pack. Now ask someone
to name any number under twenty. Suppose eleven be the number named. Count
cards face d o w n w a r d s on table quickly, and having dealt fourteen, stop and ex-
claim, "Oh! I'm sorry, what w a s your n u m b e r ? " Upon being informed that eleven
was the number desired, replace the fourteen cards on top and hand deck to person
in question, saying, "Perhaps you h a d better count them so there will be no mis-
take. Count down in the pack and take out the eleventh card." The eleventh c a r d
will be the forced one.
What I think is an original method of forcing one card is to use a well k n o w n
magical appliance, the m i r r o r glass. The card to be forced has been placed f a c e
out in the back compartment. T h e empty side of the glass is t o w a r d s the f r o n t .
T h e deck may be shuffled by anyone and is spread face down on table for a selec-
tion. P e r f o r m e r simply takes the card pointed to freely, and without showing it
to anyone it is placed back o u t w a r d in the glass. Later, w h e n it is time to s h o w
and announce the card previously selected, the glass is merely t u r n e d around a n d
the face of the card (?) seen. This card is removed a n d the glass is again
apparently empty.
The card to be forced is on the bottom of deck. The cards are r u n f r o m left to
right in the usual manner, but the action is started w h i l e approaching t h e audience
so as to give time for the following m a n e u v r e : With the second and third fingers
of the left and right h a n d w o r k the bottom card over t o w a r d right side. T h e cards
are still run f r o m left to right passing above the chosen card. Ask someone in t h e
audience to indicate his choice by touching the card desired. W h e n it is indicated
lift up this card with all the cards above it and as the pack is squared u p the forced
c a r d slips in f r o m below. A clever f o r m of misdirection is to tell t h e person after
he has touched one card that in order to demonstrate to him that you are not forc-
ing a card upon him, you will let him keep his first Choice Or m a k e another. Of
course, it makes no difference at all.
An ambiguous form of questioning can be made use of w h e n the p e r f o r m e r
wishes to have a selection made of one of two piles in hand, or one of t w o deck,
or practically anything else of which t h e r e are two. He merely asks, "Which of
these shall w e u s e ? " No matter which is named, he may either keep it for himself
or give it to the spectator, w h i c h e v e r course is necessary.
L In this method the card to he forced is placed about fifteenth f r o m top of pack,
g u a r d s are held in the left hand and the little finger makes a break directly beneath
a p h e known card, A flat dinner knife is handed to Ihe spectator w h o is asked to in-
Uiert it a n y w h e r e he may please, while the p e r f o r m e r slowly riffles the pack. It
j s only necessary that the knife enter the pack below the chosen card and fairly
> pJnear to it. T h e top fifteen cards are now pushed f o r w a r d onto the blade, pack
Qbeing tilted slightly d o w n w a r d . P e r f o r m e r grips the knife with right hand and the
„ fifteen cards, the lowest of which is the k n o w n card, are pushed well f o r w a r d and
g s l i g h t l y raised. The spectator is asked to note this card, which appears to he the
J 3 •
o g In this method a few top cards are prearranged. Three cards of one number
5 O (say five) are placed on the top of the deck and the card to he forced then placed
1/5
Uat
eight from the top. T h e pack is false shuffled, keeping the top eight cards in
jc < p l a c e . The three top cards arc then dealt onto table in a r o w and o n e selected
S w h i l c face down. This one is turned over and the spectator handed deck to count
^ j d o w n and remove the fifth card, which is the right one.
A simple yet efrectivc force is to have the card on the bottom of the deck.
After a shuffle w h i c h leaves it still there, the deck is placed behind the back and
p e r f o r m e r asks spectator to cut off any n u m b e r of cards in a bunch. Immediately
this is done, the p e r f o r m e r swings a r o u n d and asks the spectator if h e k n o w s h o w
many cards he cut. T h e answer is "No" of course, and the p e r f o r m e r states that
he cannot possibly k n o w either. He asks t h e spectator t o take the next card f r o m
the deck and to keep it. The card has been forced by simply bringing it f r o m bot-
tom to top of packet w h e n talking to spectator. During this interval the hands w e r e
out of sight and t h e w o r k done.
One, two or three cards may be forced in succession in a clean cut m a n n e r as
follows: The three cards a r e previously placed in the inside coat pocket. T h e deck is
shuffled and then openly placed in pocket so that the t h r e e cards are on bottom.
Now three spectators are asked t o nainc a number f r o m one to twenty. T h e num-
bers named, the p e r f o r m e r brings out a card at a time, and each time a chosen
n u m b e r is arrived at that card is given to the spectator. T h e p e r f o r m e r merely
takes the card at this point f r o m the bottom w h i l e the others come f r o m t h e top.
T h e following five methods are not 100% perfect methods. I've used them all
m a n y times and will merely say that they will w o r k the greater n u m b e r of times
because of the sensible psychological principles. 1 would never use such an effect
on a paying date unless set to back it up in case of failure. Many times a selection
may be offered in one of these w a y s and if it works, it is a great tiling. If, however,
another card is picked, it is possible to go into a n o t h e r effect and there is no failure
to record. W h e n one of such things work, it is talked a b o u t ; a n d w h e n it doesn't
it is covered.
What is known as the "bridge" makes possible a neat cutting force. The c a r d
is on bottom of deck. Cutting same about center, the lower half, which is to b e
placed on top, is given a simple bend (concave) at the ends. Spectator is. asked to
cut deck s o m e w h e r e a n d look at face card of cut. If cut is m a d e at sides, this will
work time a f t e r time, as the slight break at sides will cause upper half to b e lifted
off by a quick cut. By bending the sides, the bridge can be, placed at ends for an
end cut. Previous cutting by the spectator will give you this information. Most
cuts a r e at sides.
This is purely psychological but a w o n d e r w h e n it w o r k s . A new deck is
opened and of course the cards are in numerical order with t h e suits seperated.
Start fanning it towards right with faces t o w a r d you, and about fifteen cards in
remove a red card near the end of the suit and move it five or six f u r t h e r on so that
it comes second or t h i r d in the following black cards. Put deck into case. Hand
new deck to person, ask them to open and fan cards through slowly and to think
of a card as they pass by. Then they are to shuffle deck. The reaction of t h e
person is easily to figure. They are r u n n i n g through a new deck symetrically ar-
ranged and suddenly they notice one card out of line, and a p p a r e n t l y packed
that way.
T h e r e is an old effect wherein three cards are returned to the deck and it is
placed in the spectator's pocket. At command, the spectator reaches in and d r a w s
out a card. Three times in a row he d r a w s out one of the selected cards. T h i s de-
pends upon the fact that such an action causes the spectator to d r a w a card f r o m
the top of the deck, or outside of same as it lays in side pocket. The faster you
make spectator work, the surer it is. forced is no reason f o r this not being used
for a single or double card force w h e r e they are 011 top of deck to start with. Shuffle
and leave them there. Put deck in his pocket, have him quickly d r a w out a card.
Then another. While he may k n o w himself that they came f r o m the top, 110 one
else docs, and he won't think of it himself because of the shuffle.
Place a short card near center of the deck. Card to be forced mentally is above
it. Hold deck straight up in front of spectator. With iirst or second right fingers
riffle top of deck from face to back, smoothly and without a stop. Ask spectator to
note cards and to think of one that he sees. Practise before a m i r r o r to get speed.
T h e short card will click by and the following card will register on the spectator
when the rest of the deck is a slow blur. Don't t r y to stop at the card but let it
w o r k itself. It will seem impossible at times that a card will s h o w up in this w a y
but t r y it before several people before you judge.
This psychological force depends upon the address of the p e r f o r m e r . It w o r k s
nine times out of ten and the spectator is the most astonished because he h a d tried
to trick you, but merely falls into a trap. Merely hold the deck, ask him to make
his mind perfectly blank, a n d to think of any one of the 53 cards in the deck, and
that you will try to fathom his thoughts. That's the secret. People are so accus-
tomed to thinking of a deck as 52 cards that w h e n 53 is mentioned off hand, it n e v e r
fails to register. Immediately it brings the Joker to their mind, and your insistence
that you will read their mind or reveal the c a r d makes them w a n t to fool you.
A stranger is handed the deck and sent to a f a r corner. He is asked to r u n
through the cards slowly and w h e n he comes to one that impresses him as being
different than the others, one that stands out f r o m the rest, he is to pick it out
and put it into his pocket. I call this more of a good natured force. You have
turned the card over about fifteen f r o m face of deck. Pick someone w h o has
helped you and is a good natured person. Read over the above and you will see
h o w this leads t h e spectator without previous coaching. I use this a lot to start
another effect a n d w h e n it w o r k s I quit right there. W h e n it doesn't I proceed by
using the selected card in the main effect and none are t h e wiser, especially the
spectator who may have seen the turned over card and r e f u s e d to help you.
To force any two particular cards apparently at random, have a faked c a r d w i t h
a back on both sides to match the dcck used. Have on top, and about twenty cards
down and between the t w o to be forced, is any o t h e r card turned face up. False
shuffle deck, take top card without showing face (?) and have spectator push it
face down into the face up deck as you hold same. T u r n deck d o w n and fan it
through or spread or; table. T h e r e is but one face up c a r d near middle and it is
taken for the one pushed in. Take the card on either side of the reversed one and
you have innocently and fairly forced both.
This is an old force of a pile but the addition of the t h i r d pile instead of t h e
usual two may be new. Three piles are made and something written d o w n . A
f r e e choice is given of any pile, but the prediction is shown to be correct. T h e
w r i t i n g says, "You will pick the seven pile." The first pile lias seven cards, t h e
sccond four, and the t h i r d two. T h e second pile is of four sevens and none can be
elsewhere. The t h i r d pile adds to seven with a three a n d a four, and t h e r e you are.
Just t r y and go w r o n g if you can.
A cute force for the spirit photography trick or another is with an envelope.
After sealing the blank p a p e r for a picture, or w r i t i n g a prophecy and sealing,
envelope is laid on top of deck in left h a n d while spectator initials. In lifting it
off the top card to be forced is taken away f r o m deck w i t h it, w h i l e spectator shuffles
the dcck. Placed back on left hand, spectator cuts it a n y w h e r e and p e r f o r m e r
places envelope on lower half and upper half is replaced on top. Now a f e w
minutes elapse, deck is separated at envelope and the top c a r d of lower h e a p s h o w n .
Proceed with the revelation to suit. Very clean.
F o r forcing bottom card place pack in left hand, sidewise and face d o w n w a r d s ,
between the tips of the thumb and Angers, a n d with t h e second finger of right h a n d
d r a w the top cards one after the other, asking someone to stop you (at any time!.
Then d r a w cards completely off pack in s a m e direction, promptly with the one in-
dicated at the bottom of the batch. However, the thumb of the same hand, which
rested at bottom of pack, has d r a w n out the k n o w n bottom card w h i c h has squared
up and appears to be the one chosen.
Place a short card or a double card, t w o glued together, near center of pack.
The card immediately above it is to be forced. By riffling t h e ends of the pack
f r o m face u p w a r d s , t h e pack always clicks and stops at the double or short c a r d .
Have spectator insert his finger in pack while doing this and time to r e a c h b r e a k
as you push deck f o r w a r d to his finger. This moment's b r e a k enables h i m to jab
finger in. Have him look at or take cut face c a r d of u p p e r half.
A most natural method of forcing one card is to have on top. Spectator is
asked to cut deck which is on p e r f o r m e r ' s left hand, and at this moment, right h a n d
palms off top card in squaring deck. The deck is cut, and right h a n d takes lower
half (adding card) and hands same to another, asking them to take off top card.
In forcing one of t w o piles, cards are cut on a small t r a y on table. P e r f o r m e r
asks spectator to select either "left" or "right." T r a y is taken to spectator w h o is
told to take that pile named. In picking u p tray, it can be picked up f r o m f r o n t
or back which will put the pile to be forced in correct position that spectator named.
There is one old timer w h o makes a w o r k of art with this method. It requires
a fairly good and quick pass. Card is on top during shuffle and then passed to
center and break held as p e r f o r m e r asks for a number. Cards a r e dealt f r o m top
until number is reached. P e r f o r m e r asks spectator again if that w a s the number
and at this moment makes pass and t u r n s over the next card. My own idea is t o
shuffle two on top making selected card third f r o m top half. If n u m b e r w a s 15,
w h e n 12 was reached, ask then, make pass, deal two more and turn over the next.
A good second or bottom deal makes possible the acme of forces. With the top
deal card is always there and r e a d y at any time. W i t h the bottom deal, one may
have t w o or t h r e e cards in place and ask for three numbers. Cards a r e dealt in
one pile and at chosen numbers the bottom cards are dealt. Needs practise but is
w o r t h it. Would suggest Erdnase if you have not already mastered it.
If a single card be placed on top of a glass o r goblet at the height of the spec-
tator's eyes, it will be invisible at a little distance. Under p r o p e r conditions can
be used as a pretty force. Spectator shuffles and cuts pack, p e r f o r m e r placing top
half on goblet until ready for disclosure of face card w h i c h w a s already on glass
and thus added to cut half.
Card to be forced is on top of pack grasped breadthwise in left hand, tips of
two middle fingers pressing on top card. Right fingers riffle f r o n t edge of pack f r o m
face u p w a r d s until told to stop or finger of spectator inserted. Pack is apparently
opened at this point but instead u p p e r portion is removed minus top card which is
retained by moistened fingers, falling on top of lower left hand portion. Top half
is removed with a slight slip t o w a r d s left.
I have seen only one man able to make this force apparently without fail. It
is very pretty and convincing. Cards are sprung in the well k n o w n . Niagara Falls
m a n n e r f r o m right to left hand but with cards face up. Person is asked to sight
and remember any card. However, the p e r f o r m e r springs them rapidly and p a r t y
cannot see one. P e r f o r m e r repeats but slower, and makes a slight pause w h e n half
w a y through. Then the balance are quickly released. Spectator never w a n t to
fail twice and takes the only opportunity he gets to see a card. P e r f o r m e r sees it
also and having little finger at break controls it.
A conveniant force for one of four cards, or for a F o u r Ace pile is to lay them
on table in a r o w . P a r t y is asked to name a number between one and four, w h i c h
limits them to ' T w o " and " T h r e e " but this subtle fact is never noticed. Cards are
between p e r f o r m e r and p a r t y . If "Two," p e r f o r m e r counts f r o m his left. If
"Three," he asks spectator to count f r o m his left. In either case, "2" is selected.
To force a pile with two dice, make eight piles or eight cards in t w o r o w s of
four each: 1 2 3 4 Cards or piles 1 and 2 are alike and one
of the 5 6 7 8 two is to be forced:
F o r 2, count 1, 2.
F o r 3, count 4, 3, 2.
F o r 4, count 4, 3, 2, 1.
F o r 5 or 0, count 8, 7, 6, 5, 1 (or 2.)
F o r 7 or 8, count 5, 6, 7, 8, 4, 3, 2. (or to 1.)
For 9 or 10, count 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 7, 0, 5, 1 (or to 2.)
For 11 or 12, count 4, 3, 2, 1, 5, 0, 7, 8, 4, 3, 2 (or to 1)
One method of forcing one of four cards or piles in a r o w made use of a single
die with the Ace made into a three, and the four changed to a five. No matter
w h e t h e r 2, 3, 5 or 6 is thrown, n u m b e r 2 is always reached b y starting f r o m one
or the other end, counting through the r o w and back again as required.
Nearly the same as above but with one unprepared die. Take a chance against
one or four t u r n i n g up. Chances are 00 2/3 to 1 against it. If one does turn up,
explain that you will roll again to s h o w the die not loaded.
The old ambiguous questioning principle is still useful w h e n in a tight place.
Practically has no limit to possibilities. Asked to name, a pile, suit, color, value,
etc., the p e r f o r m e r always either leaves it for f u r t h e r questions or eliminates it
according to which is necessary to have t h e correct card or pile left until the last.
Have the force card say 15th f r o m the top. Now a p p a r e n t l y shuffle t h e cards
but actually you are r u n n i n g off the cards f r o m top of deck one b y one and a f t e r
r u n n i n g eleven or twelve in a fast r u n they a r c dropped back on top. Now ask
for a n u m b e r f r o m one to 15 while you are shuffling. Say eleven is called. Rapidly
run f o u r cards as if merely finishing shuffle and dropping pack on top this time,
hand deck to spectator and the card is eleventh f r o m top.
This may possibly be the oldest count down force of them all but none tlio
less, I have seen it used by several well k n o w n w o r k e r s . Its simplicity is w h a t
makes it good. T h e card is on top and a f t e r shuffle which leaves card on top,
p e r f o r m e r holds deck in both hands and asks for a n u m b e r f r o m one to ten. Just
as he asks for this, the right thumb at rear counts oil' six cards f r o m bottom and
left little finger stands by. If six or seven is chosen the packet is passed to top in
the action of h a n d i n g packet to spectator. Otherwise p e r f o r m e r recounts if n u m b e r
is below six and adds if over seven. If so, he covers by asking spectator to step
up to him and then take the deck. Simple but one of t h e most practical.
F o u r piles are laid in the form as shown by letters A—B—G—D and pile A is
always forced by a t h r o w of a die as shown by the table.
A B 1 A
C D 2 B A
3 D C A
4 C D B A
5 A B C D A
6 B A C D B
To cleanly change a deck for a force or stacked deck is to use one of the large
size m i r r o r glasses which will hold a>deck on either side. Have the force deck w i t h
an outstanding different card on face of same, in the back compartment with t h e
face side out. Now force this card from an o r d f n a r y deck in use a n d have r e t u r n e d
to the pack and shuffled by spectator. Take deck in fingertips not allowing face of
same to be seen and put it with back towards audience in f r o n t p a r t of ^lass so
that it cannot be manipulated or changed (?.) Ask that the chosen card be named,
tap top of glass, command card to come out of deck, and then t u r n glass a r o u n d
showing the chosen card now at face of deck. Take this deck f r o m glass and
proceed with either stacked or force deck effects.
This is a unique impromptu force that is w o r t h including for some reason or
other. It makes use of the old reflection principle w h e r e a table knife is pushed
into the pack and the p e r f o r m e r sees a reflection of the tip corner of c a r d as the
spectator notes it. To force a number up to ten is most feasible. A spectator shuf-
fles pack and then inserts a knife while p e r f o r m e r holds deck. After noting a card
another spectator is asked to do the same. The secret here is that p e r f o r m e r , k n o w -
ing all values looked at arranges them to suit his needs. In two, three or f o u r
selections, either the value w a n t e d is hit or a combination of figures that will add
to it. As p e r f o r m e r apparently k n o w nothing, he can ask t w o people to add their
numbers together while he otherwise finds or names card of third party.
There are unlimited variations and two people can be asked to compare their
known numbers and subtract the smaller f r o m the larger. I thought this very
crazy w h e n I first heard of it, but tried it by myself a little and r a n into some very
strange combinations. If one fools w i t h a little they will get a great kick out of
juggling the chosen numbers which have the faculty of t u r n i n g u p w h e n most needed.
In forcing three cards successively make them short cards b y cutting a slight
concave piece out of each end. Have them on top together while you riffle shuffle
several times keeping them in place. Now cut them to center and riffle the outer
end asking spectator to put finger in a n d take out a card. As his finger comes up
riffle to and stop at .the break, he getting the top one of the three. Without chang-
ing deck or cards, square up and repeat with another and then w i t h the third. This
is probably the best w a y of forcing three cards w i t h an otherwise o r d i n a r y deck
posible.
I once saw a cuto force of a card which appeared on a slate. The card w a s
palmed in the right hand of p e r f o r m e r hut f r o m the face of the pack so that face
of card was against palm. T h e p e r f o r m e r stood with right side slightly t o w a r d s
spectator and p a r t y shuffled the deck well and was cautioned to then cut and let no
one see the bottom card. Magician took deck f r o m above with his left hand and laid
it face down on his right hand onto the palmed card there. This hand was then
waved back and forth above the slate which had been- shown then deck w a s lifted
and the card shown at face of same. Could be used other ways.
Put card to be forced on top of pack and hold for an overhand shuffle. Lift
ofT about ten cards f r o m top and bring them back of deck holding a half inch
break at thumb end. Now ask spectator to stop you anytime as you shuffle. Start
running the pack in two and threes quickly and the moment spectator tells you to
stop, the remaining cards above break are dropped and last packet t h r o w n on top.
p e r f o r m e r asking the spectator to take off the top card. T r y this before a m i r r o r .
It is a clean method.
A variation on the counting down of numbers is to have a 4-5-9-J-K in any
order on top of the deck and the card to be forced immediately u n d e r them. False
shuffle deck. Fan off" top five cards showing them carelessly to he different, and
mixing them have one freely selected. T h r o w remaining four 011 top of deck and
false shuffle again. Have the value of chosen card named and spell it olf a card at
a time. T u r n the next card u p or have it picked u p by spectator. The five values
given above only spell with four letters so this one can never fail.
Lay 17 cards out face down as follows: XXX T h e card is in the cen-
ter and thus become the center card of XXX any one of the four
r o w s of five cards that may be chosen. XXXXX Pick up the r o w select-
ed and redeal the live XXX cards into a design
XXX
thus: X Once more the card is left in center and one of the two r o w s of
three XXX chosen. The other two cards are discarded and a selection of one
card X made f r o m t h e three. Nine times out of ten it will be the middle
and correct card. It would be a little safer though to use ambiguous questioning
here by having them selected t w o cards which you either keep or discard a n d the
same with the remaining two if the correct card is left among them. T h e arrange-
ment of the seventeen and five cards is novel though in eliminations of either card
or articles.
Into a felt fedora hat drop the deck. However, t h e t w o or t h r e e cards 011 top
are dropped' onto one side of the crease and the deck on the other. N o w h a t i s
held f r o m the bottom, the fingers pinching together tightly the side the t w o o r three
cards are on. The hat can be shaken any length of time and the cards bounced
a r o u n d in great fashion, but the p e r f o r m e r can always reach in and produce the
three w a n t e d cards or b r i n g t h e m out at any number.
To force red or black w i t h an ordinary deck seperate the colors first. F r o m
the back towards face have 7 black, 13 red, 13 black, 13 red, 6 black. Give deck a
straight cut at center, then a riffle shuffle of the two halves and have a card selected
f r o m among the middle 15 or 20 and it will be red. To force color black reverse
the above set up.
Hand deck to anyone to put into their own hat and shake them up as m u c h
as desired. You are blindfolded and handed hat. With hand empty you reach in
and immediately d r a w out the card to be used but it is very simply forced because it
was tucked up your right sleeve just beyond the cuff and upon lowering your hand
into the hat you hold, the card drops into your fingers. Simple, clean and very
sweet.
One of two packets, or cards must be used first. Take a few coins f r o m pocket
and shake t h e m up in cupped hands. Ask one spectator f o r odd or even and state
that the w i n n i n g spectator shall be used. If he calls odd he loses. If he calls even
he loses, and in either case the other packet is used which is just w h a t you wanted.
The coins w e r e a dime, a nickle, and five pennies. If odd is called you have t w e n t y
cents which is even. If even is called you have seven coins w h i c h is odd.
Deck is handed spectator. He may transfer one or t w o c a r d s f r o m top to bot-
tom or not any as he desires without telling anyone w h a t lie does. Then he is to
deal a pile of two cards, then one of three, one of four, another of five and lastly
one of six. He selects any heap, discards the others and adds together the spots
in the selected pile. He counts to this number in pack and the card there is forced.
F r o m BACK towards the FACE the pack reads KD—QS—QD—JC—2D—JS—10C—
—All—311—10S—9C—2C—3S—AS—9D—8H—3C—-2S—211—AC—8S—711 — then a n y
22 cards and then the card to be forced. Everything is self w o r k i n g as per above
routine.
A table k n i f e can be faked by putting the end of a card cut olT so as to only
be as wide as knife, on back of same and face against the blade. It is hinged to the
lower edge and back of card covered with silver p a p e r to avoid flash although this
side need never be seen. T h e shuffled deck is held face up and the knife inserted.
It is held square with the top edge of pack and then tipped f o r w o r d which leaves
the top of fake card showing.
A variation is to be h a d by using a full size duplicate card on the back of a
used envelope which p e r f o r m e r has in pocket. T h e envelope is taken carelessly
from pocket and inserted into the shuffled face up deck. Hinging deck open, the
face up card on lower half is seen and once more the correct card has been forced.
Either of these two methods can be used with b o r r o w e d decks as the back design
makes no difference. Just be sure w h e t h e r you are using the wide or n a r r o w cards.
The deck is shuffled and placed face down on table or tray. Taking a pencil
f r o m pocket p e r f o r m e r pushes a bunch of cards f r o m center of pack which are
counted and the number made use of. Use a new penny pencil f r o m a ten cent store
and cut the eraser end off square and sand it down smooth and sharp. N o w t r y it
out on a deck of cards fairly new and count the n u m b e r pushed out. That's that
but it looks as fair as anything can look and yet be forced. Use it on the same
deck always until you have a chance to first test it on a strange deck because of
slightly different thicknesses.
Have the card on top of deck. Place deck behind back and instantly the right
hand palms top card and then is placed under and against the back of left h a n d on
which deck lays. T u r n back to spectator and ask him to take deck ofT hand and
shuffle first. He then lays on h a n d and cuts off a packet. T u r n i n g for a second you
ask him, "Did you shuffle the cards w e l l ? " "Did you cut a n y w h e r e you p l e a s e d ? "
Then turn back and ask him to take the next card. During the s h o r t stall, the
right hand placed it's palmed and hidden card on top and of course it w a s naturally
forced..
A variation is to place such a card just under the back of the coat in an o r d i n a r y
paper clip sewn there. T I I Q face of card is against body. In the t u r n and while
talking, the card is merely pulled down and added to the top of the deck.
Make a double face card, say the Ace of Hearts and 10 of Spades. Have it on
face of deck Ace of Hearts out. About center of deck have the t w o cards to be
forced and between them put the regular Ace of Hearts f r o m deck but turned over
and back up. Now have spectator note Ace of Hearts is on face of deck. Tell him
to take behind back, turn the Ace back up and push into deck somewhere. Take
deck and spread with faces up. The reversed card is seen near center and the cards
on either side are used. Tli reversed card is shown to actually be the Ace of Hearts
and the one actually used has vanished because it was two faced.
Arrange pack thusly: 0 black cards face down.
On these 12 red cards.
Then 0 black ones.
Next the black force card—Ace of Spades.
On this a red short card.
Any other red card.
7 black cards.
12 red cards.
Remaining G black cards.
Divided at short card and riffle once leaving the short and force card on top.
Hand to spectator to riffle. T u r n your back and he looks at cards taking the first
black f r o m top, getting the Ace of Spades.
A variation of this is to have the card to be forced a picture card. Have the
remaining eleven picture cards at top o r back of deck and the one to be forced is
second f r o m bottom. Have spectator riffle shuffle two times and then fan starting
at face of deck and note first picture card he sees. You will always force the right
Remove from top portion of deck all cards higher than the force card which
you place third or fourth. Under cut half of deck, injog top card and shuffle off.
Cut at injog, hand pack to spectator and ask him to cut off a portion and from them
take the highest card.
To force t w o or three cards have them on top. T h e three people each n a m e a
number a little higher than the last. Say the first is seven. Pack is in left hand,
pass one by one six cards to right h a n d one on top of the other. At count of six
leave the card from bottom of right packet onto the left packet and immediately
take it as seventh card. Continue counting on down to the other n u m b e r s repeating
the move each time.
Put card to be forced seventh from top. At center of deck have the four sixes,
four sevens and four eights. Now false shuffle and have a card selected f r o m among
these twelve. If as ix, count ofT six and turn the seventh. If eight, take card back
and add to top of deck before counting.
Place card to be forced at say 10 f r o m top. Call for any n u m b e r under 15,
say ten. Six cards a r e dealt by way of showing w h a t spectator is to do. Drop deck
on the counted off cards and push to spectator. The force card is n o w tenth. Can
be used with any number desired and cute.
Another form of ambiguous selection can be used when one of two piles is to
be used. T h e p e r f o r m e r merely says, "Will you pick up one of the p i l e s ? " T h e
moment the spectator takes it, the p e r f o r m e r either states that so and so will be
done with it, or else picks up the pile remaining and proceeds.
The deck is placed on left hand and about five cards reversed on the bottom,
the bottom one against hand being card to be forced. A handkerchief is d r a p e d
over hand and spectator asked to cut t h e deck through handkerchief so p e r f o r m e r
can have no control at all. The moment spectator cuts, the left h a n d u n d e r cover
of handkerchief, turns lower half over and spectator is asked to take the top card
of lower half. Enough Said. The use of the handkerchief makes this perfect.
Reverse about seven cards at bottom of deck and place the card to be forced
third f r o m the bottom. Ask for a number to be called and deal froin the top until
you have reached three less than the number called. Look up and verify the number.
As you do this turn the packet of cards over and then continue the deal, ending
the count at the third card which is turned over or h a n d e d to spectator.
An old timer but very practical and deceiving force is to have the card on
top and deck on table. Ask to have it cut a n y w h e r e and w h e n this is done, p e r -
former carelessly puts the lower half on upper half but crosswise. It is left this
w a y for a f e w minutes while trick is continued until time for selection to be
revealed w h e n , top half is taken off and top card of lower half (?) turned over.
Really deceptive.
The principle of shaking cards in a hat may be used as a neat and innocent
looking force. A derby or felt hat in which crown has been rounded out is used.
Cards are dropped in and hat shaken with a vigorous side motion and also circular.
Regardless however, and although cards are h e a r d to bounce around, the order of
pack will not change. Any number of cards are on top of deck. After shaking
p e r f o r m e r reaches in and brings out cards one at a time.
I have varied the above a n u m b e r of times b y d r o p p i n g the card to be forced
into hat w h e n b o r r o w i n g and pushing out c r o w n . F i r s t have deck shuffled b y
spectator. Take back and drop into hat seeing t h a t card there goes on top of deck.
Now shake well to mix ( ? ) . Tip hat on last few shakes so cards go together on
one side of pack. Have spectator reach in quickly and take first card he comes to.
Not 100% b u t a clean effect. A lady is always the best.
This is a bold face force invented by R. W. Hull and actually fooled me the
first time I saw it. The spectator is asked to name any n u m b e r and p e r f o r m e r
openly counts down to the number and the card is forced. Now follow this with
cards in h a n d . T h e card to be forced is on top. In counting, they a r e taken off
into right h a n d one at a time and thus reversed in the counting, the force c a r d
becoming face card of right h a n d packet. P e r f o r m e r counts off the n u m b e r of
c a r d s as called, looks at spectator and says, "That w a s the number you wanted,
wasn't i t ? ' Upon acknowledgement, p e r f o r m e r slaps the right h a n d packet face
u p into the deck in left hand and says, "Then the is the card you have
chosen," and proceeds with the effect without f u r t h e r hesitation. Bold as the
devil, but deceptive and will get by practically 100% of the time.
This takes advantage of the spectator's inabiliy to see. In each side pocket,
p e r f o r m e r has a single kind force deck. F r o m an ordinary deck these two c a r d s
have been removed. Ordinary deck is used and then shuffled. P e r f o r m e r states
that under cover of darkness selections will be made to insure absolute change
and privacy. He turns out light. Immediately lakes deck f r o m pocket with f r e e
hand and gives to spectator to shuffle, take one and put in pocket. In meantime,
ordinary deck is placed in empty pocket and other deck brought out. Dcck taken
from spectator and second force deck handed immediately to another p a r t y with
same request. First is put away and original dcck brought out. Second deck taken
back and pocketed. Lights on and p e r f o r m e r has o r d i n a r y dcck minus the t w o
selected cards.
Ordinary deck is handled and shuffled. P e r f o r m e r tells spectator w h a t to do.
To put deck in coat pocket then reach in, take any card, t r a n s f e r it to another'
pocket, and r e t u r n deck. In explaining this p e r f o r m e r goes through motions, but
in pocket is an all kind deck except for bottom card and this deck is brought out
f o r spectator to use instead of the ordinary.
A different force is to a r r a n g e nine cards with values to make up the well
known magic square of 15. Put on top of deck so that they may be dealt face d o w n
in three r o w s of three cards each. This will force a n u m b e r 15 o r a card by having
card 24th f r o m top at start. Deal the square of cards. Have a n y horizontal, p e r -
pendicular, or diagonal line of three selected. T u r n face up a n d add. To f o r c e
card, count down in remainder of deck and turn up the 15th.
Have about six letter envelopes at hand and card to be forced face down un-
derneath. Spread shuffled deck face down and have any one selected by not looked
at. Hold face down in right hand between first and second fingers. Have stack of
envelopes with card in left. Fan envelopes using both hands and have one selected.
Card in right h a n d goes under fan for a second and is changed. Remaining en-
velopes and card go to pocket. Card still face down is placed in envelope until
time for disclosure. Cute and subtle.
Use a stripper deck to force any card. T u r n this card a r o u n d in deck. Have
the cards shuffled a n d then take them back. Just have them r e t u r n e d on your left
h a n d and w i t h right you cut deck and have either the face card of cut noted or t h e
top card of lower half looked at. The turned c a r d is always easy to get a n d any
card used. Very useful.
The force card with another card on the face of it are palmed in right hand
face to palm while deck is shuffled. Taking deck back they a r e added to face of
deck. Force card is n o w second from bottom. Any n u m b e r is called. P e r f o r m e r
holds deck in left fingers a n d thumb face down and with back of h a n d u p w a r d .
Bottom card is shown a n d d r a w n off. Left little finger d r a w s the force card back
u n d e r n e a t h a half inch and cards are d r a w n off until number is reached.
Have two or three duplicate cards on top of desk. Spread t h e m out on a small
tray being sure that the top three are kept near r e a r edge w h e r e right thumb can
hold them down. Now tray is shaken back and f o r t h a n d cards allowed to slide
ofT tray until three are left w h e n spectator picks up one of the three remaining.
Good flash force for stage.
To force two cards, have one on top and one on bottom. Run through deck and
toss out the Joker to spectator. Now riffle deck twice leaving the top and bottom
cards intact. Undercut half of deck and have Joker dropped onto the top of pack,
tiie undercut lower half being dropped on top and deck h a n d e d to spectator with
request to cut again and then once more. Now have him r u n through and take out or
note the cards on each side of the Joker. Worked smoothly and fast this is a real
deciver.
T h e card to be forced is placed behind the flap of a card box. Any card is
selected but not looked at and spectator drops same into box face down. Box is
closed and handed them to hold. When ready, box is opened a n d t h e c a r d revealed.
P e r f o r m e r must handle the old style box at finish, but with mechanical box, spec-
tator.
When using slates for writing or pictures, have the card u n d e r slate flap. The
same procedure takes place. With mechanical slates, they are cleaned by spectator
first. Unknown card placed between and closed. W h e n opened, card is shown
and a picture is on slate.
Use a card box t o hold the deck. Fake the flap in lid so that back is covered
with a card pasted on same back out. Behind flap have four, five o'r more c a r d s
in order to be forced. Deck is mixed and placed in box which is closed and extra
cards are added. Spectator takes them out singly and calls them off.
The midget size Little Duke cards will just fit a penny size match box. F o r
a cute pocket force have several cards inserted between lid and d r a w e r of open
box. Deck is mixed, placed in box, box closed and the extra cards added to top.
I k n o w one professional, a superb showman, w h e gets a great effect out of this
simple method. Anyone shuffles deck, p e r f o r m e r takes same and hands a p a r t y
to go to a f a r corner and to pick out one card and place in his pocket. When taking
deck back from shuffle, p e r f o r m e r adds a card to face which bears a message to
spectator to help out by picking a certain card in order to fool t h e rest of t h e
audience. Seldom fails if you pick your spots.
I am giving a number of good and useful changes f o r decks w h i c h will be
very much needed w h e n using special or p r e p a r e d decks. All of these are good
w h e n switching to a stacked deck also.
When in evening dress and with the necessary small pocket on hack of trousers,
and the large profonde pocket on inside of coat tail, shuffled pack is dropped
into profonde and the one in pocket removed under cover of turn to left. If turn-
ing to right, use the opposite side in same manner.
Pack to be changed to is on table behind a box or object. Returning to r e a r
of table, p e r f o r m e r picks up object with both hands, and placing it aside drops
shuffled pack behind it, leaving exposed on table the prepared one w h i c h appears
to be original left there when picking u p the object.
The chair servante, on the back of any chair has a clip holding the p r e p a r e d
pack over a metal ring provided w i t h a net. In the act of moving the chair aside,
deck in right h a n d which takes hold of chair back drops shuffled dcck in net and
comes away with the other.
Prepared deck is in right breast pocket. Shuffled pack in right hand. T u r n i n g
to left to r e t u r n to front, right hand drops pack in left breast pocket and left h a n d
takes pack f r o m right pocket. To spectators it appears if deck merely changed
hands.
Have p r e p a r e d pack in left tail pocket with a handkerchief. Takes shuffled
deck in left hand, place behind back, followed by right hand which takes and
places it in pocket, at the same time removing prepared pack and handkerchief. I^eft
h a n d then takes p r e p a r e d pack, both hands brought to front, handkerchief used and
then replaced in pocket. Actions are perfectly natural u n d e r these conditions.
Making use of the standard card tray, it is held with p r e p a r e d deck u n d e r n e a t h
w h i l e ordinary dcck is mixed. P e r f o r m e r states that he will not h a n d l e the cards.
Return to tray, he t u r n s around and walks to spectator nearer f r o n t . In doing so
the tray changes hands and is turned over, bringing the other deck into play.
Force a c a r d or number by taking three cards of like value, say 9 and placing
first, t h i r d and fifth f r o m top of deck. N o w deal a r o w of six cards a n d ask p a r t y
to name any of t h e six numbers, 1 to 0 inclusive. If an odd n u m b e r is named, you
count and turn over card. If even, let him count. Pick u p cards f r o m left to right
and flash last one which shows a different value. W h e n forcing card, have same
15th f r o m top at start.
A small clip is pushed onto bottom edge of card to be forced. A q u a r t e r inch
lip stick out at right angle from card. Card is in deck about 12 c a r d s from face.
Lip lies Hat along bottom end of deck towards back. Deck placed in glass faces to
audience and with top p a r t protruding. Spectator asked to lift a w a y any number
of cards from facc of deck in a bunch. Because of lip u n d e r deck, the force card
always stays behind and becomes facc card of dcck a f t e r cut.
Card to be forced is on top of deck and back has been rubbed with diachylon
(lead plaster) secured at drug stores. Better than w a x . Cards a r e spread and
any one selected. P e r f o r m e r squares deck, places on top while spectator initials
back. Pressed against top card, they adhere perfectly and may be dealt or handled
as a single card. After marking, it is placed in full view until ready to b e shown.
Another subtle change for deck to a stacked or force pack is to have same in
pocket in case. F r o m o r d i n a r y deck take, t w o or three cards, place deck in case
and in pocket. Now p e r f o r m a stunt w i t h these card, such as 3 c a r d monte, etc.,
then take out other deck in case and proceed. Case not necessary but a little point.
Use a force deck to force t w o cards. In pocket have o r d i n a r y deck with these
two cards on top. Have selections r e t u r n e d to force deck and shuffled. Place in
pocket and w h e n cards are named, produce them one at a time. Take out o r d i n a r y
deck, put cards with it and continue.
While not exactly an out and out force this is a similar case where an absolute
message is handed out that tells the name of a freely chosen card. It can be w r i t e n
upon a slate if so desired, but to prevent anything f r o m being k n o w n b e f o r e h a n d
it is written in code. Now three cards are forced in a bunch by a n y p r e p a r e d
method, and the deck laid aside. The spectator is asked to look at the three cards
and to finally select anyone of them. Then the message is decoded and it gives
the name of the card. The secret is simply that p e r f o r m e r has three code cards
in his pockets, one for each card and tho message w h e n decoded can be any of the
three cards. It is a simple substitution code of letters, one being the letter before,
one being the letter after, and the other can be mixed.-
A glass is used large enough to hold a deck, and it should be a fluted glass w h i c h
makes this ruse perfect. A card f r o m deck is already in glass at the start but
standing with its side edge towards audience. It will be invisible even f r o m a
fairly good angle because of the fluted sides of glass and f r o m the f r o n t it is ab-
solutely invisible. Deck is shuffled, and without bottom card being seen, it is
placed into glass, and later turned around so that the forced bottom card can be
seen.
A variation is to have three or f o u r cards in glass. Put the shuffled deck into
glass but with the cards going to back and at once pick up glass and allow a
spectator to hold. Now when ready have him pull out the top card and name,
then the next, etc. You either just know them and name before showing or have
them appear or rise, etc. f r o m another deck.
Although a perfect second deal is most to be desired, I have seen several w h o
used the principle in a bold but flashy w a y . It is done standing and the dealing is
done with a swing of both hands. This absolutely covers the fact that the top is
pulled back about three q u a r t e r s of an inch by the left thumb. T h e deck is also
tipped slightly backwards, not much but enough to help a lot.
Another second deal that has found favor w i t h a f e w is to u s e as a top card,
one with the u p p e r right corner cut away. F o r use f r o m stage o r in f r o n t of aud-
ience w h e r e the chosen card is merely shown it is perfect. The deck is shuffled
leaving card on top and any number dealt off or until command to stop. Then top
card is shown it being held by the cut off corner so nothing is seen.
T h e card to be forced is second f r o m bottom. Deck is held face down in the
fingers and thumb w h i c h are on the sides. T h e second finger of right h a n d pulls
the cards one at a time f r o m bottom of the deck t h r o w i n g t h e m face up on table.
The first is f a i r l y dealt but after this is removed the little finger of left h a n d pulls
back the bottom card about half an inch and seconds f r o m bottom are dealt until
it is desired to produce the bottom card.
Still another ambiguous form of selection is to have t w o halves of the pack on
the spectators hands or else two cards held in each of his hands. The p e r f o r m e r
merely says, "Give me one of them." He then either uses the one h a n d e d him or
merely lays it down at the same time telling spectator w h a t to do with the one he
has kept.
Put two cards to be forced t h i r d a n d f o u r t h f r o m bottom. False shuffle and
have spectator cut off top half of deck taking the lower. He counts them on table
reversing them. T h e n he puts top card on bottom, the next c a r d in middle, the next
c a r d he gives to another spectator and the next he keeps for himself. T h e t w o
cards have been forced.
A variation is to have one card to be forced on bottom to start. Have portion
cut off and the lower half counted. Now have spectator cut this counted portion
into two piles and then hand you one of them. Thus you force the card by cither
using the top card of the pile handed you or having him keep top card of his pile.
A one h a n d e d method of doing the old fan force may And someone w h o can
make a w o n d e r f u l thing of it. Use the Charlier pass and the top card to be forced
in brought to center of deck letting the left little finger hold the break. As pack
is held out to spectator, spread it a little will left t h u m b leaving top card of lower
packet m o r e exposed. As spectator's h a n d comes out turn pack so this card is
easier for him.
Put the force card eleventh f r o m top. Above it are cards of mixed suits but
the values r u n f r o m Ace to Ten ending with ten on top of deck. Now false shuffle
and hand deck to spectator. He slowly deals and stops at any time turning c a r d
face up. He then counts down to the card at the number thus turned up a n d it
always forces the eleventh card.
20 202 METHODS O F FORCING
CARDS (Prepared Cards)
I shall list under one heading, the single, double and three kind forcing decks
which arc pretty well known. The single force deck, of course, may be genuinely
shuffled. With the two or three kind decks, it is wise to have the first card of
eacli group marked.
This pack consists of only three different cards but they are arranged in sets
of three, each set being the same. No matter where the pack may be cut, three!
cards taken together above or below cut will be the three different force cards.
Known as the Svengali deck this has been found very useful for a single force.
It consists of 20 long and 26 short cards arranged alternately throughout pack. Bot-
tom card is long, next above short, etc., leaving a short card on top. Each short card
is the same, while the long cards are all different. Riffling at end f r o m bottom up
shows the cards all different. Finger can be inserted a n y w h e r e and card on top of
lower half selected. It will be a force and a duplicate of card is on top of deck.
The Menetekel deck is not essentially a force deck, but gives command of a
duplicate and may be used with more freedom than the last. The long and short
cards arc arranged the same but each long ca